Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Cyprus Part 3 of 3

So, after our excursion to Nicosia we thought it might be worth renting a car for a day or so to do our own exploring on our own time, in our own way. Well, it was! We found a good deal at a place right across the street from the hotel, and we headed out with a couple of maps and some advice we'd been given by a nice couple we chatted with in a local curry house.

We headed west towards Pafos, but took the coastal road, as recommended. We drove out of Limassol, past the salt lake area to our first stop, nestled in an orchard area - a small castle in Kolossi, which wouldn't have made a half-bad summer place (with the exception of the lack of running water and electricity) and after which we sat at a local lean-to drinking fresh squeezed orange juice and enjoying the surroundings.

We continued to drive along the coast road admiring some stirring views, beautiful churches and mosques, and visiting several places of archeological interest. These included one of the largest on the island, Kourion, home to the House of Eustolios and which is also complete with a fully-restored Greco/Roman theatre. We also visited the Sanctuary of Apollo and the famous rock said to be the birthplace of Aphrodite (Aphrodite's Rock :) and a number of other very interesting (albeit very hot and dusty!) places, the last of which was the Tombs of the Kings (which is not actually for Kings, but some rich dudes anyway...)

We did a bit more driving toward the northwest portion of the island, hoping to get to the Baths of Aphrodite (which we didn't reach until another day) which was, I must say, the only really disappointing part of our trip! - not what we'd expected to see after quite a challenging journey. A very small, unattended, quite unremarkable spot. But still cool to have visited.

We also took a journey up and through the Troodos Mountains (where the temperature can be many degrees cooler than at sea level). We overshot the main road we should have taken, so were on a secondary road - which at times was treacherous (consider significant heights, and roads full of hairpin turns and switchbacks, with very few guard rails .... (and which later helped us make a decision *not* to try our original plan to get to another destination using what are shown on the map as "loose surface roads" much later in the day). And it took far longer than we'd anticipate, between the road conditions - and the fact that we hadn't considered that elevations were marked in meters - not feet - doh! At nearly 2,000 meters high, that's a substantial difference (than close to 6,000 feet).

Anyhow, the town of Troodos, when we finally got there, was lovely and we enjoyed the cool weather, fresh corn on the grill, some ice cream and some very serene and relaxing surroundings. On the way down the other side is the Kykkos Monastery, the largest and most famous on the island, and dating back to 1100. I know that we were in some of the oldest parts, but it was so immaculately kept that much of it seemed new. And clearly it has been expanded to accommodate such modern-day necessities, like a garage to house the many diplomatic vehicles and other vehicles housed there. And in the nearby market area, I found it inconsistent to may brain to see a robed monk, sitting on a stone wall - talking on his cell phone. But I guess technology knows no bounds. This is a monk yes, but we are also really in the middle of absolutely nothing else. I hope he gets a good deal on roaming charges :)

We made what turned out to be a wise decision to turn around after we'd gone up and over, to go back up and over from whence we came, but had we not done so, likely would have ended up in the middle of a sparsely-populated area of the island with no street lights and no real idea of which direction to take. As much as we enjoy watching Ray Mears and Bear Grylls documentaries about surviving in the wilderness, we were glad not to have had to put any of what we've learned into practice.

At the end of our three days of car journeys, we were exhausted but it was just the right amount of this kind of holiday and we'd spend the rest of our visit staying local, lazing by the pool and sea and tuning out the world for a bit. Nice.

We made friends with the proprietor (and wife and cousin) of a restaurant we quite enjoyed, called Dejeuner. We found overselves there on several evenings. And they must have liked having us around, too, because they gave us a very nice bottle of wine one evening "on the house." And each time after the first, any single glass of wine was larger and more full than the servings of other patrons. That worked out nicely, didn't it?

Now, there are other proprieters who weren't so keen on us. Not because we'd done anything wrong. But we were not the young, thin, single, barely-dressed young women that they wanted in their clubs. We were old, fat, married, and fully-dressed. No free drinks there, no sir!

Alex, naturally, found a die-hard football fan at a local pub (shock). The owner of Shakespeare's Pub in Limassol is a Chelsea supporter. He did give Alex a bit of grief about his beloved Wycombe Wanderers - but he was respectful. And he *also* gave us some free shots...what kind of impression are we giving these people ?! :) Could be that he wanted to get us too drunk so that we'd continue to pump money into the bar-top trivial pursuit machine. He was entertained, too, by the competitive nature and male/female dynamic that is highlighted when a husband and wife jockey to win.

Now, there was a bit of karoake, but fortunately nothing captured on film (or audio!) Let's just say that we decided not to return to that pub, at least not this time. And we didn't go looking for more, like we did in Portugal :)

We did, however, stay long enough that we were invited by our new friends (including the above-referenced cousin) into the underground disco that opens after the street-level pub must close for the evening. And we stayed for about 4 minutes and realized that we are just way too old (and too fat, and too married and too fully-dressed) for this sort of nonsense of staying out 'til 5 a.m. - and we grabbed some fast food and went to bed.

We also weren't able to capture on film one other thing that I was quite intrigued by, for some reason. Perhaps it is just my love for and healthy fear of the motorcyles. Let me first say that Cypriates are kind of crazy drivers, fast drivers...daring drivers. And it wasn't unusual on any evening on the high street in Limassol, for groups of motorcyles to drive by, all "popping a wheelies" (to nearly a 90-degree angle) - and for some length of time and distance. And sometimes with passengers on the back. I was just fascinated so we tried to capture it, but our luck and timing were just not with us. We did, however, get a great shot of a giant cockroach! Hey, no place in the world is 100% glamorous :)






This is the last of the films from Cyprus.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Cyprus Part 2 of 3 - Lefkosia and Parasailing










We booked ourselves on an organized tour to Nicosia (also known as Lefkosia) - the largest city in Cyprus, and the occupied territory and the border crossing. We weren't terribly impressed with Nicosia, with the exception of the area that is being rehabilited. A beautiful little European town with uneven cobbles with art, jewelry, linen and junk nobody would want. Very nice.







There is plenty of visible evidence of the hostilities in Nicosia. There are bullet holes in the sides of many buildings, some with sections of buildings that have been completely distroyed. Other buildings are abandoned. But there are some beautiful buildings, statues, churches and mosques in Nicosia and parts of the city that are quite pleasant and pretty.









We had a lovely lunch in the restored area of the city (I had a chicken sandwich and chips - that's French fries to us Yanks) and yes,of course, some beer (the local brew is KEO). Gotta love beer on a hot day in Cyprus.





We did venture up to the top of the building which houses Debenham's (a favorite UK department store) to get a good view. You can see quite clearly all around, and you can see where the Turks have painted a large Turkish flag across a forested area.



Crossing the border is quite obvious, at least at this juncture, because you are suddenly surrounded by shops who make fake designer handbags, shoes, belts, clothing, etc. I wasn't tempted. Ok, once, but in Limassol, and I resisted :) We didn't spend too much time on the Turkish side (in Metehan), in part because of the heat and the time limitations we had with an organized tour.



It was a very hot day when we visited, but we did get some good pictures and had an educational and lovely time. The tour guide gave us a lengthy and detailed history of Cyprus, details about the hostilities with the Turks and more. I'm not going to spit it out here. If you're truly interested you should just Google Cyprus and/or Nicosia or Lefkosia and you can read for yourself. But it is interesting.



Given the cost of the tour and the structured nature of such a tour (having to wait for everyone in the group to move on, etc.) we decided to rent a car and explore the island for ourselves. That's the next entry.



But before we decided that, we took a day to sit by the pool and sea and chill. I played with that great DSi to try to train my brain. Keeps me quiet so Alex loves it :) Lots of sunscreen, hats, cover ups and umbrellas.

So I decided to try parasailing - amazing! I was a bit worried that being pulled up on the chute would give me that "stomach in your throat" feeling but it was not like that at all. I was gently let out on the line until I was quite far up and able to see all over the island and the best perspective on the sea which was just so, so blue and beautiful. It was only about twenty minutes, but it was truly breathtaking. I'd definitely like to do that again.



Monday, August 10, 2009

Cyprus - Part 1 - Limassol








We took our summer holiday in the republic of Cyprus (the third largest island in the Mediterrean - and ) in July. And for Alex, I must inform you, Cyprus was a former British colony (wasn't everywhere??).
Cyprus considers Greece to be its mother country, but it is actually an idependent state (since 1960) separate from Greece and and geographically closer to the Middle East than to Greece. Thirty three percent or so of Northern Cyprus has been under Turkish military occupation for the last 36 years (following a coup d'état in 1974). The border crossings between the two territories were opened in 2003 and one can cross into the occupied territory (and view still-existing evidence of the more violent occupation by the clear bullet holes and scars in buildings, statues, etc.). But more on that when we visit Nicosia (also called Lefkosia), the capital of Cyprus.


The water around Cyprus is so clean, clear and oh so blue! Our room overlooked the ocean and the hotel's pool. The weather was hot and sunny, but with just the right breeze to make it very comfortable.


We stayed in the town of Limassol (also called Lemasol), which has a pretty little castle called, approprately, the Castle at Limassol. We stayed at a nice hotel on the beach right in the middle of a lively part of the town (no photos of our Karoke night, I'm afraid!)


So after spending a bit of time by the pool, on our first full day we decided to see "what was what" - which included a bus ride into the old town. The buses, I must say, were less than impressive compared to the buses in Holland ;) In any event, we spent a relaxing afternoon just strolling around the town, which is quite pretty and which is home to a nice little castle. And the first of many places we visited full of ancient ruins.


We also stopped for a spot of lunch in town (my first of many haloumi dishes.) I had a bit of a sunburn on my neck and shoulders. The restaurant owner happened to be sitting at the table next to ours, and he gave me some slices of cucumber peel and told us it was a great way to take the heat out of sunburn. He also cautioned us (imagine, as bronzed as we are?) to be very careful with the sun. How nice!


There will have to be two or three films to capture it all, and it takes me quite a while to compile even one - here is the first bit of our Cypriate adventure...



Friday, August 7, 2009

Busy Summer Final Entry - Extended Family


Above: Me and Yaz


Family certainly extends beyond our biological family and for me includes some very special people in my life and it was wonderful to see them.

While in the States I was able to spend some time with my dear friend Yaz, a college friend with whom I have been close friends for more than 20 years. Her son, Shaun, is now in his early twenties, and I have to say one of the most charming, respectful and impressive "kids" (I can call him that - but he is a man, I suppose!) that I have ever known. Kudos to Yaz for raising him so well (and completely on her own). Shaun, your aunt Leslie is very proud of you - love you loads!!

Above: Shaun; Jimmy - the love of Yaz's life :)

I also was able to spend an afternoon with my high school mate Kelly and her family. Kelly is another of those lifelong friends whose family is also my family. Her parents are quite special to me and it was wonderful to see all of them. Gosh, the kids have grown so much in such a short time! How cute are they??



Above: Kelly, Michael, Fallon, Dave, Erin; Dad and Mum Findlen



I visited my friend Brenda (she visited my last September) also - and spent just a few hours with her and her silly dog Penny and her other dog, Dudley, with whom I have a special relationship. A couple of times when I was in the States and Alex travelled to Hong Kong, Dudley came and stayed with me to keep me company - what a wonderful companion! I just love him.




Above: Brendie and Penny; Penny being coy


Below: Penny and Dudley






My trip brought me full circle back to Norwood and Scituate and I was able to attend a couple of Dave, Jr. and Dan's baseball games - the last one a quite-exciting championship game in which both boys played, and Dave, Jr. pitched (I'll tell you that's a lot of pressure on a kid which he handled well - not so with all of the adults who were totally stressed by the pressure of this game!) Ok, could they be any cuter?


Below: Dave, Jr. in action on the mound; Dan in action on the plate


Below: Adorable kiddos :)